Thursday, March 20, 2014

Here in the earth

The public cemetery in Punta Arenas (Cementerio Municipal de Punta Arenas) contains a fascinating mix of solemn and playful, grand and humble, Spanish and-- Slavic? What's with all the Kusanovic's and Covacevich's?

Sure enough, there were a number of Croatians who emigrated down here in the 19th and early 20th century. Go figure.



There are hundreds of mausoleums laid out in a tidy grid, like a miniature city of the dead. The architectural styles vary widely, even between next-door neighbors. Unlike some living neighbors with different tastes, however, these folks seem to be living in peace. Make that resting in peace.

Italian and French families

Avenida de Pinas: Avenue of Pines

Here are a few of my favorites. First, the Germanest grave I have ever seen, marking the final resting place of WWI's Admiral Graf, complete with a looming black metal eagle, giant shell casings, and for that delicate touch, ribbons in the German flag colors.

Rest in the peace brought only by the supremacy of
Kaiser Wilhelm II
So delicate...so reflective...so explodey

Some looked like standard Western graves, but not many.

A charitable group plot for poor German immigrants

There was row upon row of grave-shaped planters, for lack of a better description, with little inset cabinets in the headstones full of photos or memorabilia. Almost all the graves and mausoleums were family plots for anywhere from two to six or more inhabitants. Many were simple and white:

 

Others were not white.



Or simple.

I am assuming her lawn looked like this in the living years, too

Apparently there was even a grave-sized pyramid somewhere, but I didn't see it. You can tell a lot about a person and their culture by how they are buried. In the Punta Arenas Cemetery I met a man who blew things up for his country, a woman who loved whimsical lawn ornaments, Germans and Croats who literally went to the ends of the earth looking for a better life, and many, many people who wanted to spend eternity surrounded by family. I'll pass on the polka-dot bees, but give me family of all kinds in my forever.

Rough translation: We leave our body here in the earth,
our love in the hearts of men,
and our spirit in the hands of the Creator.




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